Fall Planting Guide for Replacement Trees

Fall is the best time to plant most tree species. The soil is still warm enough for root growth, air temperatures are cool enough to reduce transplant stress, and natural rainfall helps with establishment. When you remove a tree, recommending a replacement planting is good for the customer and good for your business.

Why Fall Planting Works

Trees planted in fall have several months of cool weather to grow roots before the stress of summer heat. Root growth continues in most species as long as soil temperatures stay above 40 degrees F, which in most regions means roots are growing well into November or December.

By the time summer arrives, a fall-planted tree has a much larger root system than a spring-planted tree of the same size. This head start translates to better drought tolerance and faster establishment.

Species Selection

Match the tree to the site. The number one cause of tree failure in landscapes is planting the wrong species in the wrong place. Consider:

• Mature size: Will the tree fit the space in 30 years? Check clearance from power lines, buildings, driveways, and property lines.
• Soil conditions: Is the soil clay, sandy, acidic, alkaline, wet, or dry? Select species adapted to actual site conditions, not ideal conditions.
• Sun exposure: Full sun, partial shade, or full shade? Most shade trees need full sun to develop properly.
• Hardiness zone: Plant species rated for your USDA zone or one zone colder for extra margin.

When recommending replacements for removed trees, suggest species with different genus to avoid repeating the same problems. If you removed a silver maple, do not plant another silver maple.

Planting Technique

Proper planting is simple but frequently done wrong:

1. Dig the hole 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. The root flare should be at or slightly above grade.
2. Remove all burlap, wire baskets, and container material. Leaving these on restricts root growth.
3. Straighten or cut circling roots. If roots are severely circled (root-bound), score the root ball vertically in 4 places with a knife.
4. Backfill with the same soil you dug out. Do not amend the backfill with topsoil or compost, as this creates an interface that roots may not cross.
5. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
6. Mulch to a depth of 2 to 3 inches, keeping mulch 6 inches from the trunk.

Establishment Care

Water newly planted trees weekly for the first two growing seasons, more frequently during hot, dry spells. A slow trickle from a hose for 30 minutes provides better deep watering than a quick spray.

Do not fertilize at planting. Wait until the second growing season. The tree needs to focus on root growth, not top growth.

Staking should only be done if the tree cannot stand upright on its own. If staking is necessary, use two stakes with flexible ties and remove them after one year. Over-staking prevents the trunk from developing taper and strength.

Sources and Further Reading

• • USDA Forest Service: Provides comprehensive guidelines on fall tree planting timing, soil preparation, and species selection for different climate zones
• • International Society of Arboriculture (ISA): Offers evidence-based planting techniques, proper root handling, and post-planting care standards for tree establishment
• • University Extension Services (various state universities): Supply region-specific planting recommendations, native species selection guides, and seasonal care protocols
• • American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA): Delivers professional best practices for site preparation, tree placement, and long-term maintenance strategies

Try These Free Tools

Put these insights into practice with our free calculators and planners:

• Tree Health Assessment Checklist
• Canopy Coverage Calculator
• Seasonal Service Planner
• Tree Removal Cost Estimator