Chainsaw Chain Selection and Sharpening

Your chainsaw is only as good as the chain on it. A sharp, properly matched chain cuts faster, safer, and with less effort than a dull one. Here is what you need to know about selection and maintenance.

Chain Types

Full chisel chains have square-cornered cutters and cut the fastest in clean wood. They are the standard for professional tree work. The trade-off is that they dull quickly in dirty or sandy conditions and kick back more aggressively.

Semi-chisel chains have rounded cutters. They cut slightly slower but stay sharp longer in dirty wood, frozen wood, or when you might hit a nail or wire. Good choice for storm cleanup and lot clearing.

Skip-tooth chains have fewer cutters with wider gaps. They clear chips better in longer bars (24 inches and up) and are the standard for milling.

Pitch and Gauge

Pitch (distance between drive links) and gauge (thickness of drive links) must match your bar and sprocket. The three most common combinations in professional work are:

• 3/8" pitch, .050" gauge (most common on saws 50cc and up)
• 3/8" pitch, .063" gauge (Stihl professional saws)
• .325" pitch, .050" gauge (smaller professional saws, 35-50cc)

Mixing pitch or gauge between chain, bar, and sprocket creates dangerous conditions. Always verify compatibility.

Sharpening Basics

Sharpen after every tank of fuel, or sooner if you hit dirt. A sharp chain produces chips. A dull chain produces dust. If you are making dust, stop and sharpen.

Use the correct file diameter for your chain pitch: 5/32" for 3/8" low profile, 13/64" for .325", 7/32" for 3/8" standard. File at the manufacturer's recommended angle (usually 30 degrees for crosscutting, 10 degrees for ripping).

Count your strokes and keep them equal on every tooth. Uneven teeth cause the saw to pull to one side.

Depth Gauges

Do not forget the depth gauges (rakers). They control how much wood each tooth bites. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will not cut. If too low, it grabs too much and increases kickback risk. File them down every third or fourth sharpening using a flat file and a depth gauge tool.

When to Replace

Replace the chain when the cutters are filed back to less than 4mm, when you see cracked or broken drive links, or when the chain stretches beyond the bar's tensioning range. A worn chain is a safety hazard and cuts poorly regardless of sharpening.

Sources and Further Reading

• • Oregon State University Extension Service: Provides comprehensive guides on chainsaw safety, maintenance, and proper chain selection for different cutting applications
• • USDA Forest Service: Offers technical publications on chainsaw operation, chain sharpening techniques, and equipment standards for forestry professionals
• • International Society of Arboriculture: Publishes best practices for tree care equipment including chainsaw chain specifications and maintenance protocols
• • OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration): Provides safety standards and guidelines for chainsaw use, including proper chain maintenance requirements

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